tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-60905448598709531712024-03-13T20:00:49.519-07:00Any Thing Can Be Fixed!How to fix just about anything that I've had the occasion to fix. Tx Ag Georgehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06448708955633154773noreply@blogger.comBlogger10125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6090544859870953171.post-34281250874249845632015-03-14T17:22:00.002-07:002015-03-14T17:22:32.561-07:00Asko D3250 Dishwasher (DW20.3) Inlet Water Fill Valve RepairOur Asko dishwasher recently stopped filling with water and although it took quite a bit of diagnosis I was able to get it running again. Ours is a 2003 model D3250 also known as a DW20.3 but most of this applies to just about any similar Asko model. The service manual is the same for the DW20.1, DW20.2, DW20.3, DW20.4 and DW20.5.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9dWS8hgn0hQ/VQS5gezYW5I/AAAAAAAAAP4/2ep4U1RdLRU/s1600/15%2B-%2B4" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9dWS8hgn0hQ/VQS5gezYW5I/AAAAAAAAAP4/2ep4U1RdLRU/s1600/15%2B-%2B4" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nameplate - A 2003 Week 48 DW20.3</td></tr>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QnQMQ1B8yvM/VQS5gfwHhBI/AAAAAAAAAPc/ZTxl83FlhDY/s1600/15%2B-%2B1" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QnQMQ1B8yvM/VQS5gfwHhBI/AAAAAAAAAPc/ZTxl83FlhDY/s1600/15%2B-%2B1" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Controls for the D3250 (DW20.3)</div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Troubleshooting</span></b><br />
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Here are the troubleshooting steps I went through to eventually isolate the problem<br />
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1. First I accessed the service menu by turning off the unit, waiting 5 seconds, then turning it back on while holding down both the Prog and Start buttons. After releasing the the Prog and Start buttons the most recent fault code appears in the 6 LEDs as follows (LEDs labeled L1 to L6 from left to right)<br />
L1 Temperature Fault<br />
L2 Overfilling<br />
L3 Thermistor Fault<br />
L4 Water Intake Fault<br />
L1 & L2 Pump Out Fault<br />
L1 & L3 Filter Clogged<br />
L1 & L4 Circulation Fault<br />
Curiously, there was no water intake fault code displayed.<br />
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2. Next I pulled the dishwasher out from under the counter, removed the rear access panel and pulled out the inlet water valve. I found a bunch a trash in the inlet filter screen but not enough to completely block water flow. <br />
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Inlet Valve with chunks of an old O-Ring caught in the inlet screen</div>
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3. After cleaning out the inlet I reconnected the water line and tested the valve by directly applying 110VAC to the terminals. It worked just fine so I knew the valve wasn't the problem and put that all back together.<br />
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4. Next I checked the control board to see if there was any obvious damage. To access the control board you just unscrew the torx head screws on the stainless steel interior door liner along the sides, in the center towards the bottom and in the center towards the top. Not finding any obvious heat damage on the control board I re-installed it but didn't yet reconnect connector #3 which supplies power to the inlet valve and used the service menu to power the inlet valve.<br />
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(After turning off for 5 sec, hold the Prog and Start buttons down while turning on, then press the Prog button to cycle through testing each function in succession 1. Inlet valve, 2. Salt valve 3. Detergent Dispenser 4. Circulation Pump 5. Circulation Pump and Heater 6. Fan 7. Drain Pump) <br />
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While in the inlet valve test mode I used my digital voltmeter to verify that there was 110VAC on the "IV" terminal which is labeled with raised letters molded into the plastic housing.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Repair </span></b><br />
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So now I knew the valve was getting power but not turning on and I had already verified that the valve works when powered directly so that lead me to the downstream side of the valve wiring. The other side of the inlet valve is wired to overflow float switch. In the center of the dishwasher pan there is a rectangular piece of Styrofoam that will actuate the overflow switch if it floats in the pan. When this happens the inlet valve is disconnected from common and the drain pump is turned on. <br />
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On the left side of the float switch (as viewed from the back) are two wiring connectors on top of each other. The top blue one has the drain pump and common wires while the lower white one has the inlet valve wire. When I unplugged the wiring connectors I immediately saw the problem. The connector was burned and melted as you can see in the photos below. <br />
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Since I needed to get the dishwasher running again without waiting on a new switch and new connectors, I just cut and stripped the common and inlet valve wires and twisted them together with a wire nut thereby bypassing the float switch. I no longer have overflow protection (at least until I buy a new float switch and install it) and I have no idea what caused the failure in the first place but our dishwasher is now up and running again just like new. <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FfPcrL5S-tg/VQS5gWOpbRI/AAAAAAAAAPo/CfX7K3xZdV8/s1600/15%2B-%2B2" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FfPcrL5S-tg/VQS5gWOpbRI/AAAAAAAAAPo/CfX7K3xZdV8/s1600/15%2B-%2B2" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Blue Float Switch Connector - In the center of this photo you can see the blue connector that is burned/melted. This connector has the Drain pump and common wires to connect to the float switch.</div>
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Inlet Valve Wire Connector from the Float Switch - you an see the burned/melted part of the blue connector fused to the top of this one.</div>
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Fixed the Asko dishware (good enough for now) in about 4 hours for $0 by bypassing the float switch and directly connecting the back side of the inlet valve solenoid to common. Tx Ag Georgehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06448708955633154773noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6090544859870953171.post-13432866547997758352015-01-10T18:02:00.000-08:002015-03-14T15:49:52.116-07:00Gasket Replacement on a Pentair Whisperflow Pool PumpI recently noticed that my pool water level was dropping faster than normal and there was a large wet spot downhill from the pool pump. After looking at the pump while it was running the problem was obvious.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Water spraying out between the pump flange.</td></tr>
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I ordered a new gasket (Pentair part #357102) and a new diffuser o-ring (Parker #2-238) and opened it up to replace the seals. The only tools you need are a 9/16" socket and a 9/16" open ended wrench. After shutting off the power, just remove the 6 bolts holding the two flanges together, grab the motor and pull straight back.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d-cUOGDQszg/VLHNh6sOBMI/AAAAAAAAAO0/qcn8pjuG0rQ/s1600/15%2B-%2B3" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d-cUOGDQszg/VLHNh6sOBMI/AAAAAAAAAO0/qcn8pjuG0rQ/s1600/15%2B-%2B3" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Disassembled pump with old gasket and missing o-ring</td></tr>
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Once you have the pump pulled apart, lift the old gasket out of the groove and replace with the new one, (flat side into the groove, crowned side facing the other flange), replace the diffuser o-ring (mine is missing in the picture above). Here's a comparison of the old and new gaskets.<br />
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Lubricate both the gasket and the o-ring with some o-ring grease and slide it back together. I used the two through bolts to help guide everything back into place. Tighten the six bolts a little at a time in a cross pattern like the lug nuts on your car. <br />
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After the parts arrived I was able to fix this leak in about 20 minutes with a total cost of around $15 for the two seals.<br />
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<br />Tx Ag Georgehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06448708955633154773noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6090544859870953171.post-44460066532340930572014-08-24T15:16:00.002-07:002014-08-24T15:20:11.757-07:002000 Lexus GS300 Dual Climate Actuator RepairMy parent's old Lexus was blowing heat out of the passenger side even when set to full A/C "Cold" mode. The repair was pretty simple. The temperature is controlled by a set of doors that mix air coming across the heater core with air coming across the evaporator core. The doors are controlled by actuators with built in position sensors. To access the actuator, remove the footwell trim panel, open up the glove box, remove the glovebox by removing the screws, disconnecting the light bulb, and detaching the yellow air bag wire from the assembly. Next remove the CD changer.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UIHMVoe391A/U_pWdybtXdI/AAAAAAAAANE/rDOVPI3_pfY/s1600/Lexus%2Bdamper%2B-%2B9" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UIHMVoe391A/U_pWdybtXdI/AAAAAAAAANE/rDOVPI3_pfY/s1600/Lexus%2Bdamper%2B-%2B9" height="200" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trim Panel</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zlJD5Ji4MuA/U_pWd_6nGFI/AAAAAAAAANU/Epx3IHlxS20/s1600/Lexus%2Bdamper%2B-%2B11" height="200" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="180" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Glove Box</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JgojDDSrBYs/U_pWd8kR7GI/AAAAAAAAAM8/1NO4eMN_iIM/s1600/Lexus%2Bdamper%2B-%2B10" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JgojDDSrBYs/U_pWd8kR7GI/AAAAAAAAAM8/1NO4eMN_iIM/s1600/Lexus%2Bdamper%2B-%2B10" height="200" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Release Light and Harness</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LflSNGTr90Y/U_pWd48zjyI/AAAAAAAAANc/fLDtpoz_GtA/s1600/Lexus%2Bdamper%2B-%2B7" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LflSNGTr90Y/U_pWd48zjyI/AAAAAAAAANc/fLDtpoz_GtA/s1600/Lexus%2Bdamper%2B-%2B7" height="200" width="180" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Remove the CD Changer</td></tr>
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Next, you need to get the air duct out of the way. Remove the retention screws and pull the duct out the car.<br />
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Once the air duct is out you have access to the actuator.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-e9Yw8BKr18Y/U_pWd2Iyh1I/AAAAAAAAANs/995YlmQP3r8/s1600/Lexus%2Bdamper%2B-%2B3" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-e9Yw8BKr18Y/U_pWd2Iyh1I/AAAAAAAAANs/995YlmQP3r8/s1600/Lexus%2Bdamper%2B-%2B3" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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The passenger side mix door actuator can be seen here to the left of the heater tubes.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3AkqsXdgNUM/U_pWdxriqaI/AAAAAAAAANk/dG92QPtgSmI/s1600/Lexus%2Bdamper%2B-%2B4" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3AkqsXdgNUM/U_pWdxriqaI/AAAAAAAAANk/dG92QPtgSmI/s1600/Lexus%2Bdamper%2B-%2B4" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Passenger side mix door actuator can be seen by looking to the left of the heater tubes and<br />
locating the yellow bushing partially obscured by the large white air duct.</td></tr>
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The actuator is held in place with three screws. I had to pull the heater tubes slightly to the side to access one of the screws.<br />
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Once the actuator was out I decided to try and repair it before buying a new one. I opened the case by gently prying open the side latches (be careful, I broke a couple of tabs) and cleaned the resistive position sensing traces on the back side of the main gear. I soaked q-tips in alcohol then held them against the underside of the large gear while spinning it around. After several q-tips the residue eventually stopped coming off. Now that the sensing traces were clean I used another q-tip to pick up a little dab of excess grease and smeared it on the underside of the newly cleaned gear.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6AkH6fCxprE/U_pWd3-0oSI/AAAAAAAAAMc/uoy7RMwAbMs/s1600/Lexus%2Bdamper%2B-%2B1" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6AkH6fCxprE/U_pWd3-0oSI/AAAAAAAAAMc/uoy7RMwAbMs/s1600/Lexus%2Bdamper%2B-%2B1" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Finally, I put the actuator back together and made sure it worked as expected (it did) before re-installing the rest of the parts.<br />
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---> Fixed in about 2 hours for free.<br />
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<br />Tx Ag Georgehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06448708955633154773noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6090544859870953171.post-60692420252302419122014-08-24T14:15:00.001-07:002014-08-24T15:20:11.761-07:002004 Yukon XL (Suburban, Silverado, etc) Dual Climate Mix DoorThe dual climate temperature control on our old Yukon has been getting worse and worse. While driving the temperature will randomly change, usually drifting toward full heat mode which isn't very convenient in the middle of a Texas summer. The temperature is controlled by a pair a doors that mix air coming across the heater core with air coming across the air conditioning evaporator. The doors positions are controlled by motorized actuators and those actuators are where the problem lies. <div>
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The actuator for the driver's side is relatively easy to access and repair/replace. On the passenger side, remove the black cover underneath the glove box above the footwell by removing the three screws. The left one is ridiculously hard to access but I was able to eventually get it out with a 6mm deep socket and a 1/4" drive ratchet.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-02tpw7WxfSc/U_pM3QHyR-I/AAAAAAAAAL0/56CPKDR5IvU/s1600/Yukon%2Bdamper%2B-%2B4" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-02tpw7WxfSc/U_pM3QHyR-I/AAAAAAAAAL0/56CPKDR5IvU/s1600/Yukon%2Bdamper%2B-%2B4" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Passenger Side with Cover Removed<br />Driver Side Mix Door Actuator can be seen on the left with the little red wiring connector</td></tr>
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Once the cover is off the actuator can be removed with two screws then just pull down to slip it off the door shaft.</div>
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The passenger side actuator is whole different story. The factory replacement procedure goes something like this: "remove the dashboard, remove the air conditioning controls, remove the radio, remove the air bag (be careful!), remove the OnStar controller, now you can access the actuator." If you Google how to replace the passenger side mix door actuator on this platform of vehicle, you'll find a simpler process advocated in various forums that goes something like: "Take the truck out into a field, pour gasoline on it, strike a match (be careful!)."</div>
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Since neither of those alternatives sounded like what I wanted to tackle on a Saturday morning, I took a different approach. If you pull the glove box stop tab back and let the door flop down out of the way and look up towards the center of the vehicle, you can see the passenger side actuator sitting on top of the air box assembly. I turned the temperature up and down, fan off and on, etc until I was pretty sure that the mix door was closed in the full air conditioning position. At that point, I took an extra long screw driver and pushed up and in on the wiring harness connector latch to disconnect the wiring. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vhjauGHARQo/U_pM3Qn2YCI/AAAAAAAAALk/ieX-eOKtX7w/s1600/Yukon%2Bdamper%2B-%2B3" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vhjauGHARQo/U_pM3Qn2YCI/AAAAAAAAALk/ieX-eOKtX7w/s1600/Yukon%2Bdamper%2B-%2B3" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking up and towards the center of the truck through the glove box (with it out of the way)<br />The actuator can be seen with the bar code sticker. <br />The wiring connector can be disconnected with an extra long screw driver reaching up from the bottom.</td></tr>
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My passenger side now has no possibility of heat, but in Texas that is much preferable to not being able to turn off the heat. In the summer I'll have A/C on both sides and in the winter I'll only have heat on the driver's side<br />
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---> Fixed (good enough) in about 90 minutes for free.</div>
Tx Ag Georgehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06448708955633154773noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6090544859870953171.post-46515212987920889952014-08-24T13:35:00.002-07:002014-08-24T15:38:01.660-07:00LED Aquarium LightMy daughter's LED Aquarium light quit working and she asked us to take her to the store to buy a new one. However, since "Anything Can Be Fixed," I recommended we go that route instead.<br />
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Once we used a digital multi-meter to confirm that the power supply was working, we removed the six screws and took the cover off to check the switch output. The switch was somehow defective and no voltage was getting past the switch in any of the three positions. We decided to just bypass the switch so we pried open the switch case, removed the corroded slider, and used a jumper wire to determine which output terminal was "On-Full" and which was "On-Low." After determining the right terminal we used a soldering iron to place a glob of solder bridging the input terminal to the On terminal.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vGmHeVrCI-g/U_pI2jJRZeI/AAAAAAAAAKo/gYyOYqD6pas/s1600/Aq%2Blight%2B-%2B2" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vGmHeVrCI-g/U_pI2jJRZeI/AAAAAAAAAKo/gYyOYqD6pas/s1600/Aq%2Blight%2B-%2B2" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Switch Case Pried Back, Slider Removed, Solder Added</td></tr>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-t7jIaem_wCI/U_pI2hV_UjI/AAAAAAAAAKw/qpOQIGvmKJE/s1600/Aq%2Blight%2B-%2B5" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-t7jIaem_wCI/U_pI2hV_UjI/AAAAAAAAAKw/qpOQIGvmKJE/s1600/Aq%2Blight%2B-%2B5" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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---> "Fixed" (good enough) in about 15 minutes for free.Tx Ag Georgehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06448708955633154773noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6090544859870953171.post-27635486559078772232014-08-24T13:14:00.000-07:002014-08-24T15:20:41.140-07:00Kenmore (Whirlpool) Washing Machine Agitator We recently noticed that the agitator in our old Kenmore 70 Series washing machine was no longer rotating. We've had this same basic model of washing machine for 25 years so this is a repair I'm pretty familiar with. <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-T7YuyYXW0rc/U_pBxh5m1mI/AAAAAAAAAJw/Ne8e5nq0OUM/s1600/Washer%2B-%2B8" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-T7YuyYXW0rc/U_pBxh5m1mI/AAAAAAAAAJw/Ne8e5nq0OUM/s1600/Washer%2B-%2B8" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
First, remove the fabric softener dispenser by pulling up on the blue ring.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Kvo8eux7JW8/U_pBxg_WtnI/AAAAAAAAAKA/oEGfg5uTM1Y/s1600/Washer%2B-%2B1" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Kvo8eux7JW8/U_pBxg_WtnI/AAAAAAAAAKA/oEGfg5uTM1Y/s1600/Washer%2B-%2B1" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
Next, pop off the top cover of the agitator. There is a small slot where you can use a flat headed screw driver to pry off the cover.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6k1c57Iv_DQ/U_pBxsk8-7I/AAAAAAAAAJg/ysxH8rs0T_8/s1600/Washer%2B-%2B2" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6k1c57Iv_DQ/U_pBxsk8-7I/AAAAAAAAAJg/ysxH8rs0T_8/s1600/Washer%2B-%2B2" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
Once the lid is off you can see the clutch with the 4 worn out dogs. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-R1zQdnY3zrM/U_pBxs4pz6I/AAAAAAAAAJA/3AGANTbV0-g/s1600/Washer%2B-%2B3" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-R1zQdnY3zrM/U_pBxs4pz6I/AAAAAAAAAJA/3AGANTbV0-g/s1600/Washer%2B-%2B3" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clutch with worn out dogs</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Use a socket and extension to remove the retainer bolt and lift the entire agitator out of the washer. You can just grab the clutch assemble and pull it off the agitator.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WLWePxYq1bc/U_pBxoxvSmI/AAAAAAAAAJQ/r0LDiBmkw1A/s1600/Washer%2B-%2B6" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WLWePxYq1bc/U_pBxoxvSmI/AAAAAAAAAJQ/r0LDiBmkw1A/s1600/Washer%2B-%2B6" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from underneath the agitator assembly</td></tr>
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<span style="text-align: center;">Once you have the retainer assembly removed the new clutch dogs just drop down into the slots</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QllRZ8TPo9k/U_pBxiSDCYI/AAAAAAAAAJY/hFAYfK_D6MI/s1600/Washer%2B-%2B9" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QllRZ8TPo9k/U_pBxiSDCYI/AAAAAAAAAJY/hFAYfK_D6MI/s1600/Washer%2B-%2B9" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Retainer Assembly with New Dogs Installed</td></tr>
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Next just snap the assembly back together<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WVaVVwvmdD0/U_pBxvvTA6I/AAAAAAAAAJI/SJWFN7G9oq4/s1600/Washer%2B-%2B7" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WVaVVwvmdD0/U_pBxvvTA6I/AAAAAAAAAJI/SJWFN7G9oq4/s1600/Washer%2B-%2B7" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reassembled Clutch with New Dogs</td></tr>
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Then place the agitator back in the washer, install the retainer bolt, cover, and dispenser.<br />
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---> Fixed in about 15 minutes for about $4.<br />
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<br />Tx Ag Georgehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06448708955633154773noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6090544859870953171.post-79190340534809446562014-08-24T12:43:00.000-07:002014-08-24T15:20:54.086-07:00Bearing replacement on a B668 auxiliary pool pumpOur robot pool cleaner uses a Pentair Universal Booster Pump with a B668 motor and recently it began to squeal with the sound of a bearing going bad. It was so loud you could easily hear it inside the house whenever the pump was running. <br />
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The motor is variously known as an AO Smith Century Centurian Motor, a part #7-187400, a B668 motor, or a Pentair Universal Booster Pump Motor and is a very common motor for pools and spas.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mJkwEcgY4jE/UyOZCWkKevI/AAAAAAAAAIc/GbTshAwH4x0/s1600/14+-+19" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mJkwEcgY4jE/UyOZCWkKevI/AAAAAAAAAIc/GbTshAwH4x0/s1600/14+-+19" height="320" width="179" /></a></div>
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LG-nXFsjtMM/UyOZCfxZfjI/AAAAAAAAAIA/M2tKao7ca1k/s1600/14+-+5" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LG-nXFsjtMM/UyOZCfxZfjI/AAAAAAAAAIA/M2tKao7ca1k/s1600/14+-+5" height="240" width="320" /></a><br />
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To fix it, I first disconnected the electrical service by shutting off the circuit breakers, unplugging the two blue hot wires, and unscrewing the green ground wire from the back of the motor. Then after disconnecting the conduit, pulled the wires clear of the motor.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-l72SW31Ie-g/UyOZCemfxvI/AAAAAAAAAG8/T80P7Adc3CE/s1600/14+-+16" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-l72SW31Ie-g/UyOZCemfxvI/AAAAAAAAAG8/T80P7Adc3CE/s1600/14+-+16" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back of motor with electrical access panel</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qHsgS3Quuns/UyOZCeBBy8I/AAAAAAAAAHY/WAF_cE8rg7A/s1600/14+-+15" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qHsgS3Quuns/UyOZCeBBy8I/AAAAAAAAAHY/WAF_cE8rg7A/s1600/14+-+15" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Electrical Connections</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eFTOabBRCVM/UyOZCfARfFI/AAAAAAAAAHw/XoJBhxabHlc/s1600/14+-+17" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eFTOabBRCVM/UyOZCfARfFI/AAAAAAAAAHw/XoJBhxabHlc/s1600/14+-+17" height="320" width="240" /></a>Second, I removed the 8 nuts holding the two halves of the pump together so I could take the motor into the garage without disconnecting any plumbing at the pool.<br />
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Next, I removed the pump impeller by holding the back end of the shaft with a wrench and unscrewing the impeller from the front end of the shaft.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XtEKdKUWgpA/UyOZCWjQcyI/AAAAAAAAAHg/GpQS_UYHzLw/s1600/14+-+13" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XtEKdKUWgpA/UyOZCWjQcyI/AAAAAAAAAHg/GpQS_UYHzLw/s1600/14+-+13" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cap removed to reveal back end of shaft</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ESxz2eXEfNY/UyOZCcMzPEI/AAAAAAAAAHE/5TpAAOzytxM/s1600/14+-+14" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ESxz2eXEfNY/UyOZCcMzPEI/AAAAAAAAAHE/5TpAAOzytxM/s1600/14+-+14" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pump impeller ready to be removed</td></tr>
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Finally, I removed the front pump housing from the motor and shaft. Then after removing the four long through-bolts from the back of the motor and pulling the shaft/motor cap assembly out clear I noticed that there is a bearing retainer on the back side of the front motor cap. At first I tried to loosen the retaining bolt head recessed in the motor cap but it was frozen solid. Eventually I figured out that I could just take a screw driver and rotate the retainer out of the way from the underside.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-A9wY2B_3crY/UyOZCWi6SYI/AAAAAAAAAGM/IjPc2ar-Zfc/s1600/14%2B-%2B10" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-A9wY2B_3crY/UyOZCWi6SYI/AAAAAAAAAGM/IjPc2ar-Zfc/s1600/14%2B-%2B10" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Recessed Bearing Retailer Screw</td></tr>
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<span style="text-align: center;">To remove the worn out bearing without an arbor press (I should have just gone to Harbor Freight and bought one) I used an open ended wrench and a hammer to beat on it until it finally started to move. </span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3YJtTHNYETo/UyOZCeREIbI/AAAAAAAAAII/HbVKgdC7hmE/s1600/14%2B-%2B6" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3YJtTHNYETo/UyOZCeREIbI/AAAAAAAAAII/HbVKgdC7hmE/s1600/14%2B-%2B6" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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After the bearing and spacer ring were off I cleaned up the shaft ahead of the bearing with a flapper wheel and then polished the seal surface with some buffing compound on a buffer wheel.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-g0HpHRH-xPA/UyOZCVbcLRI/AAAAAAAAAGE/G90NtS4xTBY/s1600/14%2B-%2B2" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-g0HpHRH-xPA/UyOZCVbcLRI/AAAAAAAAAGE/G90NtS4xTBY/s1600/14%2B-%2B2" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5j3ExpcOvDA/UyOZCcPwpWI/AAAAAAAAAGU/h4WeCTCozgI/s1600/14%2B-%2B1" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5j3ExpcOvDA/UyOZCcPwpWI/AAAAAAAAAGU/h4WeCTCozgI/s1600/14%2B-%2B1" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shaft after Polishing</td></tr>
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After tapping the new bearing and the spacer into place, again with an open ended wrench and a hammer I moved over to replacing the shaft seal while I had everything apart.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-K2mczaq1vxY/UyOZCc84LTI/AAAAAAAAAG0/K-D-smUhZVI/s1600/14%2B-%2B3" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-K2mczaq1vxY/UyOZCc84LTI/AAAAAAAAAG0/K-D-smUhZVI/s1600/14%2B-%2B3" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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To remove the old shaft seal I just tapped it out with a large screw driver and a hammer. To seat the new seal, I used an old piece of pipe I had sitting around with the right diameter to clear the floating seal and engage the rim of the housing.<br />
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From there everything just went back together the same way it came apart.<br />
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----> Fixed in about 3 hours for about $10 ($5 for the new bearing, $5 for the new shaft seal)Tx Ag Georgehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06448708955633154773noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6090544859870953171.post-34607141301421877942014-02-15T07:24:00.000-08:002014-02-15T08:24:32.103-08:00Schlage Electronic DeadboltMy parents have a Schlage electronic deadbolt (theirs is a BE369 with a Z-Wave radio but this also applies to the BE365 without a radio as well as the FE599 and FE595 lever locks) and were complaining about a couple of buttons that wouldn't always work properly anymore. The fix was quick, easy, and free.<br />
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First, remove the interior cover by removing the two screws.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Am-nAXIhJ-4/Uv97Ajr__PI/AAAAAAAAAEU/1aW0uMGS09k/s1600/14+-+3" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Am-nAXIhJ-4/Uv97Ajr__PI/AAAAAAAAAEU/1aW0uMGS09k/s1600/14+-+3" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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Next, unscrew the two bolts holding the two sides of the lock together.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bhnYWUvbHno/Uv97ArasmjI/AAAAAAAAAEc/GZZzCWIintA/s1600/14+-+4" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bhnYWUvbHno/Uv97ArasmjI/AAAAAAAAAEc/GZZzCWIintA/s1600/14+-+4" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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Unplug the wire connecting the outside to the inside and remove both sides from the door.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QpZPMF4-jwU/Uv97AiiOeAI/AAAAAAAAADs/J7jVixl4cnI/s1600/14+-+7" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QpZPMF4-jwU/Uv97AiiOeAI/AAAAAAAAADs/J7jVixl4cnI/s1600/14+-+7" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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Remove the six screws attaching the outside housing<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UPoxnwNTLvo/Uv97AoA8-ZI/AAAAAAAAAD8/fvUzYZQuBHU/s1600/14+-+11" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UPoxnwNTLvo/Uv97AoA8-ZI/AAAAAAAAAD8/fvUzYZQuBHU/s1600/14+-+11" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Lift off the silicon keypad cover to reveal the circuit board underneath.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lz4uIyN5w3M/Uv97Aln1OuI/AAAAAAAAAEE/PZ2w1ApgpoM/s1600/14+-+8" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lz4uIyN5w3M/Uv97Aln1OuI/AAAAAAAAAEE/PZ2w1ApgpoM/s1600/14+-+8" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jVpdIj_CUXU/Uv97AkEfLsI/AAAAAAAAADg/AkXwtbXuAOg/s1600/14+-+1" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jVpdIj_CUXU/Uv97AkEfLsI/AAAAAAAAADg/AkXwtbXuAOg/s1600/14+-+1" height="150" width="200" /></a></div>
On the circuit board below the keys, you can see the residue on several of the button pads. I didn't have any alcohol or electronics cleaner handy but I did have some brake cleaner so I squirted a little bit of brake cleaner into the spray can cap, dipped a q-tip in the cleaner, then just wiped off the residue.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BlrqH_Be1AE/Uv97AigTa2I/AAAAAAAAAEo/nANkOHiyyGc/s1600/14+-+10" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BlrqH_Be1AE/Uv97AigTa2I/AAAAAAAAAEo/nANkOHiyyGc/s1600/14+-+10" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Before</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oWV2G82rpKs/Uv97At_XBbI/AAAAAAAAAEw/lRMmQk68u1E/s1600/14+-+2" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oWV2G82rpKs/Uv97At_XBbI/AAAAAAAAAEw/lRMmQk68u1E/s1600/14+-+2" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Residue Removed from Circuit Board</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-07kH5KPEkH0/Uv97Ar3K-sI/AAAAAAAAAD0/p_k9-KwxJLE/s1600/14+-+9" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-07kH5KPEkH0/Uv97Ar3K-sI/AAAAAAAAAD0/p_k9-KwxJLE/s1600/14+-+9" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After</td></tr>
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After everything was put back together, it works just as good as new.<br />
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----> Fixed in 15 minutes for $0<br />
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<br />Tx Ag Georgehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06448708955633154773noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6090544859870953171.post-58390848019004321572014-02-09T15:00:00.001-08:002014-02-15T08:24:18.188-08:00Replacing a rear turn signal lamp on a Jeep Grand CherokeeAt 36,00 miles my 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee left, rear turn signal went out. It was very simple to replace. (This also applies to 2011 and 2013 models)<br />
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1. Acquire a 3057 replacement bulb<br />
2. Open the tailgate<br />
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3. Use a flat blade screw driver to pop out both retainer pins.<br />
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4. Pull the whole tail light assembly straight back<br />
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5. Rotate the bulb holder to the left and remove from the assembly<br />
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6. Pull the old bulb straight out<br />
7. Push the new bulb straight in<br />
8. Reinsert the holder and rotate it to lock it back in place (an arrow and the word "lock" are molded in the housing if you forget which way to turn it.<br />
9. Line up the two rear alignment pins (the two black posts towards the back of the assembly) with the two sockets in the car panel and push the assembly straight forward (towards the front of the car) to seat it securely back in place.<br />
10. Insert the two retainer pin bases, then push the two pins in place.<br />
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----> Problem solved in 5 minutes for $5 Tx Ag Georgehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06448708955633154773noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6090544859870953171.post-69832516928544412492014-01-30T19:32:00.002-08:002014-08-24T15:43:45.877-07:002004 Yukon XL (Suburban, Silverado, Tahoe,Sierra, etc) "Reduced Engine Power"Solving "Reduced Engine Power" on a 2004 Yukon XL (Suburban)<br />
(also applies to Suburban, Silverado, Tahoe, Sierra, and Yukon models plus 2005, 2006 model years)<br />
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Last year while driving our 2004 Yukon XL out of town on a Saturday evening, the truck suddenly dropped to idle, displayed "Reduced Engine Power" and would not respond to any accelerator pedal input. We were able to idle down a few side streets and into an auto parts store parking lot. After checking the truck with a scan tool they told us that the computer was bad and we needed a new one for $300. I doubted that was really the right repair so I spent a few minutes using my phone to Google around and soon found that disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes or so would reset the fault, hopefully letting me drive far enough to get a hotel for the night and buying me enough time to figure out the real problem. I popped the hood and started to disconnect the negative wire from the battery but immediately noticed that it was loose and barely attached. I went ahead and took it off, left it off 10 minutes, securely reconnected it, and drove off without another problem for nearly a year...<br />
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------> Problem solved in 45 minutes for $0 by tightening up the negative battery connection.<br />
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Which brings me to this week. The truck had been sitting in the driveway for several weeks since it was last used and as soon as I started it the "Reduced Engine Power" message reappeared. Again there was no response to pushing the accelerator pedal. I felt pretty confident that I knew what was going on so I popped the hood, disconnected the battery, cleaned up the little bit of corrosion on the terminals, waited 15 minutes, reconnected everything, and started it back up. <br />
Same problem. Back to Google. <br />
I found a number of references to cleaning the throttle body in order to solve this problem so I dumped a can of carb cleaner into the throttle body (I just pulled the intake air hose off and manually rotated the butterfly valve out of the way), reconnected the hose, and restarted the engine. <br />
Same problem. Back to Google. <br />
I found another report from a guy who had found that the throttle control box was positioned on the firewall where it gets wet and water related malfunctions were causing his issue. So I decided to look at that box and see if it was wet. Well it wasn't wet but I did happen to notice that the wiring harness leading up to the throttle controller was literally chewed through. <br />
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16 wires, split conduit, electrical tape - completely severed by some mischievous critter. So, after running to Radio Shack for some 22 gage wire and shrink wrap I was ready to make the repair. Now the problem was that there are 16 wires and only 14 different colors - there are two black wires and two gray wires in the connector! This is where the AutoZone website came to the rescue. They have wiring diagrams available online for free if you sign up for an account. Using the wiring diagram I found that one of the black and one of the gray wires go to the throttle body connector. I unplugged the connector off the side of the throttle body, found the gray and black wires and used my vohm meter to determine which black and which gray wires in the harness went to the throttle body and therefore should be spliced to pin 2 and 3 on the throttle control connector. <br />
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With that problem solved, all I had to do was cut sixteen jumper wires, solder them into the harness, shrink wrap and tape it up. After all the splicing was done the truck fired right up and runs like normal.<br />
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--------> Problem fixed in 4 hours for $12 ($4 wasted on carb cleaner $8 for wire and shrink wrap)<br />
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While it is seems unlikely that your "Reduced Engine Power" message is due to a wiring harness that has been chewed in half, you never know till you check!Tx Ag Georgehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06448708955633154773noreply@blogger.com0